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Relays are small but extremely important components in a car’s electrical system.
They control high-current devices like fuel pumps, radiators fans, headlights, AC compressors, horn circuits, ignition systems, and more.
If a relay fails, the entire system it controls can stop working — leaving you confused about whether it’s a wiring issue, sensor issue, or component failure.
Good news: Testing a relay is simple, and any automotive enthusiast can do it at home with basic tools.
This guide explains how automotive relays work, how to identify the terminals, and step-by-step methods to test them safely.
A relay is an electrically controlled switch.
It uses a small current to control a much larger current.
Coil terminals → energize the relay
Switch terminals → connect or disconnect power
Armature → internal movable contact
Housing → protective outer case
When the coil receives voltage (usually 12V), it creates a magnetic field, pulling the switch closed and allowing high current to flow.
85 = Coil negative
86 = Coil positive
30 = Power input
87 = Power output
Includes an additional terminal 87a, used for normally-closed circuits.
Used in modern compact fuse boxes.
⚠ Fuel pump not working
⚠ Radiator fan not turning on
⚠ AC compressor failing intermittently
⚠ Car cranks but won't start
⚠ Headlights or horn randomly not working
⚠ Clicking noises from fuse box
Most electrical “mystery issues” trace back to faulty relays or poor connectors.
✔ Multimeter (continuity + voltage mode)
✔ 12V battery or jump pack
✔ Jumper wires
✔ Needle probes (optional)
Remove the relay from the fuse box.
Connect 12V to pins 85 and 86.
You should hear a distinct click.
This is the simplest initial test.
Set multimeter to ohms (Ω).
Measure between pins 85 and 86.
Normal coil resistance = 40–200 ohms (varies by relay).
Either condition means the relay must be replaced.
With NO power applied:
Test continuity between 30 and 87
Should show NO continuity (open circuit)
Apply 12V across pins 85 and 86.
Now test continuity between 30 and 87 again.
= Relay is switching properly.
If not → the internal contact is burnt or stuck.
For a 5-pin relay:
30 ↔ 87a → Should show continuity when relay is NOT energized
30 ↔ 87 → Should show continuity ONLY when relay IS energized
If 87a remains open or stuck → relay is faulty.
Relays often fail due to:
Overheating caused by high current
Corroded or loose pins
Poor-quality connectors
Moisture entering the fuse box
Rapid cycling (AC relays)
Damaged wiring
Many electrical faults result from poor connectors, not the relay itself.
This is why workshops often use heat-resistant connectors from WirestoneAuto.com.
Moisture corrodes relay pins.
Underrated relays burn quickly.
Loose connections cause overheating.
Cheap insurance against failure.
Always match your relay type.
Coil is dead
No clicking sound
Contacts burnt
Housing melted
Relay overheats
Pins are dirty
Slight corrosion (cleanable)
Relays are inexpensive — replacement is the safest solution.
Testing a relay is one of the easiest DIY electrical diagnostics in a car.
With a multimeter and a 12V power source, you can quickly determine whether a relay is good, weak, or completely dead.
✔ Identify relay pins (85, 86, 30, 87, 87a)
✔ Check for clicking sound
✔ Test coil resistance
✔ Test switching continuity
✔ Inspect pins, wiring, and connectors
A healthy relay ensures your car’s electrical components run reliably for years.